BackgroundBoiled down to it's simplest goal, rock climbing, outdoors or indoors, is all about getting from one point on a wall or rock face to another using only a specific set of real or artificial climbing holds making up a route/problem. As a sport, rock climbing can be done casually as well as competitively and the equipment required, rules and techniques vary slightly across the different disciplines.
People have climbed rocks for as long as people and rocks have existed together. Everything from simply hiking elevated, rocky terrain, to using their whole body to scale a rock face. The activity is first thought to have been recognised as a sport, however, in the 1880s, with the first indoor gym being built in 1987.
There are no restrictions on age, gender identity or ability to get involved in the sport of rock climbing.
Find out the rules and equipment needed for the three main climbing disciplines within indoor rock climbing.
In recent years there has been a surge in the building of new indoor climbing gyms as the sport grows in popularity. Simply search online for Indoor Rock Climbing Gyms near you!
Those already captivated by the sport will be able to confirm that indoor rock climbing is an exhilarating full body sport, challenging the climber both physically and mentally, whilst also being a very social activity.
Due to the creative and social aspects of rock climbing, many climbers and climbing communities develop their own slang or shorthand for various techniques, pieces of equipment, styles of climbing hold etc... Below are a collection of informational tiles to explain some of the most common climbing terminology, which will hopefully help those newer to climbing to better understand the sport and the community.
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Typically comprised of a plastic material known as polyurethane, textured with a fine silica sand and bolted onto a climbing wall. Holds can also be made of real rock or even wood and be shaped to simulate real outdoor rock surfaces or just to provide an interesting route for the climber. Any set climbing route will contain holds of the same colour inorder for the climber to identify the route and most climbing gyms also use the different colours of holds in their grading systems to indicate the difficulty level of the climbs.
Hover over/tap on the tiles below to find out about the most common types of climbing hold:
Have a large indentation in the top of the hold with space for most, if not all, of the climber's fingers and sometimes both hands. On average these holds are bigger, making them easier to grip and giving the climber more options for how to hold them.
Are generally not seen very high up on the wall and are noticeably smaller in size. These are more specifically intended to be used by the climber's foot, but whether a hold should be used with a hand or foot depends on the climber's technique and how the climb has been set.
Have a very shallow, flat edge, leaving only enough space for the pads of the climber's fingers. These vary in width, allowing anything from both hands to only a few fingers. Usually only seen at harder grades due to the crimping technique required to use them properly.
Are designed to be held by the tension between the climber's thumb on one side of the hold and their fingers on the other. This intended grip position generally gives the holds a more rectangular appearance. They're more common at difficult grades due to the hand strength required to hold them.
Have a smoother appearance due to their lack of significant indents or edges. Climber's rely heavily on the frictional force between their hand(s) and the hold in order to use it, requiring the climber to position their hand(s) with maximum contact on the hold and their center of mass as directly below it as possible.
Have a small pocket cut into the face of them, generally intended to be used with 2 or 3 fingers. The internal shape of the pocket can vary interms of how deep it is as well as the degree it is 'cut-in', allowing the climber to grip it as if it were a mini jug, sloper or crimp.
Generally have a similar appearance to jugs, but are orientated so that the climber grips them from the side of the hold rather than the top. To make best use of the hold, climbers idealy keep their center of mass on the opposite side of the hold.
Have a similar appearance to jugs, generall, but are orientated so that the climber grips them from underneath the hold rather than the top. To make best use of the hold, climbers idealy keep their center of mass above or inline with the hold.
Are generally large shapes, composed of flat sides, giving them a geometric apperance. They're primarily used to change the structure of the climbing wall to create interesting features for climbing holds to be fixed to, but climbers can use them in any way they wish, as part of any climb they're fixed close enough to.
Refers to holds whose surfaces have two distinct textures, generally; a rough texture, like normal holds, and a very smooth finish, which provides little to, no friction. This combination is designed to narrow the climber's options as to how they can use hold.
In addition to the holds in climbing, the angles, features and even textures of the walls themselves contribute to the challenge of the climb. A climb may include sections fo wall that cover more than one of the types below, but a wall will predominantly fall into one of these catagories.
Hover over/tap on the tiles below to find out about the most common types of climbing walls:
Are the simplest and probably most common type of wall, not having any particular gradient or obvious features. It's common for these to have volumes and/or large climbing holds fixed to them inorder to give variety to their structure.
Are angled towards the ground so that the climber has to work harder against gravity to keep their center of mass close to the wall. These are generally seen at harder grades as they require the climber to maintain a higher level of body tension, control and precision.
Are angled slightly away from the ground. Climbs on these sections of wall generally include holds which are more spread apart, shallower or harder to grip in some way, causing the climber to rely on their sense of balance and making slower, more accurate movements rather than very powerful or dynamic ones.
Are prominent edges on a wall, generally the positive corner created where two walls meet. Some walls may have a line painted down their edge to indicate whether or not the arête is allowed to be used as part of a climb on the wall.
Have some kind of platform/flat surface on top, which the climber is required to get onto in order to complete the climb, rather than just holding the final hold with both hands.
Are set so that the climber moves predominantly in a horizontal direction rather than vertically. Traverse walls are generally used for warm up/cool down exercises or for training, but any climb could have a section of it that falls into this definition.
Have a rope running through a fixture at the top of a high wall, with both ends hanging down. One end of the rope is intended for the climber's harness and the other end is for their belayer's harness. The belayer takes in the slack in the rope as the climber ascends.
Have a rope fixed at the top of a high wall, in an autobelay system, with one end of rope hanging down for the climber to clip to their harness. As the climber ascends, the system automatically draws in the slack in the rope and if the climber lets go of the wall completely, it slows their descent.
Have a number of quickdraw fixtures spaced throughout a climb on a high wall. The climber has one end of a rope attached to their harness and the other is attached to their belayer's, who is responsible for maintaining the correct amount slack in the rope as the climber ascends, clipping their rope into the quickdraws as they pass them.
Consist of two large metal clips attached by a short rope sling. One clip has a solid gate so it cannot be easily opened, making it more secure and the end which is fixed/clipped to the climbing wall. The other clip has a bent, wire gate which is easier to open and used by Lead climbers to attach their rope to as they ascend.
Consist of a series of climbing holds/volumes starting at one point on the wall and ending at another. The holds are generally all the same colour, which helps the climber identify the route, and it will have a particular grade/grade range to indicate its difficulty level. Generally 'problems' are used to rfer to climbs in Bouldering and 'routes' refer to longer, roped climbs.
Whilst climbers aren't required to use any specific techniques in order to complete a climb, there are a number of 'moves', or techniques, which are so frequently use that they have earned their own place in climbing terminology.
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Hover over/tap on the tiles below to find out about the most common climbing techniques:
Is when the climber brings their second hand to the same hold or edge as their first, using it with boths hands.
Is when the climber moves the same hand between holds twice or more in a row, instead of using their left and right hands alternatingly.
Is when the climber reaches one hand/foot across their body and past their other hand/foot in order to move to the next hold.
Is when the climber uses only part or all of the pads of their fingers to grip a hold or edge.
Is when a climber climbs without using their feet, for part or all of a climb.
Is when a climber makes a dynamic moves, generally some kind of jump or large shift in body weight, inorder to reach a hold(s) which couldn't be reached statically.
Is when a climber takes their feet off the wall either inorder to progress to the next hold or as a result of a dynamic move. This is not the same as campusing, but a climber may campus part of the climb after cutting loose.
Is when a climber maintains tension in a fully bent arm, while letting go with their other hand to move towards the next hold.
Are when the climber uses the tension of pressing away from their body in opposite directions to stabalize themself. The opposite of Compressions.
Are when the climber uses the strength of pressing their hands towards each other around one or seperate holds to stablize themself. The opposite of Gastons.
Is when the climber presses the sole of their climbing shoe (generally the area cover the balls and toes of the feet) against a wall or feature and uses the frictional force to move themself to the next hold.
Is when the climber exchanges one foot for the other on a particular hold.
Is when the climber uses their leg as a counter balance, by extending it out in the opposite direction of the arm that is moving to the next hold.
Is when the climber uses the top of their shoe to hook under/around a hold or edge to stablize themself. Its easier to generate the right tension when the leg is as straight as possible.
Is when the climber uses the heel of their shoe to hook ontop of/around a hold or edge to stablize themself. Its easier to generate more power when the leg is bent.
Are when the climber has their foot on a hold and wedges their knee/lower thigh against another hold to stablize themself.
Is when the climber hangs upside down, while Toe Hooking with both feet directly above them.
Is when the climber completes a climb on their first attempt.
Is shorthand for a climber successfully ascending a climb.
Are when the climber is required to start the climb sat on the gym matting with their hands and feet on the starting holds.
Refers to some kind of information about how the route/problem should be climbed, based on the Route Setters' intentions. A 'Beta Break' is when a climber uses a technique instead of the intended Beta.
Is when a climber accidentally touches a part of another climb or some other area which isn't allowed as part of their route.
Is when a climber's hand or foot suddenly slips off a hold, volume or part of a wall due to a lapse in the frictional force they were maintaining.
Refers to when a climber begins to exhaust their forearm muscles making it more taxing to grip onto holds. Common on longer routes where a climber may need to find a way to rest briefly and shake off each arm.
Not all climbers climb competitively, but those who don't generally love to watch those who do! It can be incredible to witness some of the very best climbers in action, but understanding the technical language used by commentators and other members of the community could provide a smoother experience for those newer to the sport.
Hover over/tap on the tiles below to find out about the most common terminology in competition climbing:
Are in charge of creating and setting the climbing routes/problems and usually have a intended methods/Beta for each section of the climbs.
Is the time that climbers are given to visually inspect a route/problem from ground level. In competitive climbing its very common for climbers to discuss/share ideas/Beta with one another.
Is where climbers wait in a room/area where they cannot see the route/problem or communicate with anyone, until it's their turn to climb.
Are invoved in Lead climbing events and have the other end of the climber's rope attached to their climbing harness. They are responsible for maintaining the right amount of slack in the rope as the Lead climber ascends.
Are used in the Speed climbing events.
[See also Autobelay in the Climbing Wall section.]
Are used in the Bouldering events and are a single hold/point in the problem, usually around the middle of the route. Climber's who reach this hold/point in a controlled way are awarded a Zone. Zones and Tops acheieved by climbers are used to determine their rank in the event.
Are the final hold on their route/problem. Climber's who reach this hold/point in a controlled way are awarded a Top. they're most commonly reffered to in Bouldering events as Tops and Zones acheieved by climbers are used to determine their rank in Bouldering events.